Living in Hargeisa as an expatriate

Visa requirements

Visa requirements for Hargeisa can be complex, as Somaliland is not recognized as an independent state by many governments. Most expats prefer to enter via neighboring Ethiopia, which offers a visa-on-arrival service. Alternatively, it's possible to enter Hargeisa from Nairobi, Kenya, via a land border crossing. It's essential to check the latest visa requirements with your home country's embassy or consulate and ensure that you have all the necessary documents before traveling.

Language resources

As Somali is the official language in Somaliland, it's essential to learn some key phrases to get by in everyday life. However, many expats find it helpful to learn English, which is widely spoken, particularly in the business community. The British Council offers English language courses in Hargeisa, as well as opportunities to meet other expat learners. Language exchange programs, such as Tandem, also offer a chance to practice your language skills in a friendly, informal setting.

Housing

Accommodation in Hargeisa covers a range of prices, depending on whether you choose to live in more traditional areas or new developments on the outskirts of the city. Shared apartments (sometimes known as 'bedsitters') are readily available, with prices starting around $50-80 per month for a room in a shared house. A one-bed apartment is around $150-250 per month, while a two-bedroom apartment costs around $250-450 per month. For larger families, it's possible to find three-bedroom houses for between $350-800 per month, depending on the neighborhood.

Groceries

Food in Hargeisa is relatively inexpensive, particularly for basic staples such as rice, pasta, and vegetables. A basic grocery shop for a week's worth of food can cost around $25-40 per person. For meat and poultry products, it's advisable to check the source and cooking methods, as there have been reports of foodborne illnesses in the past. Cold beer and spirits are readily available in most supermarkets and liquor stores, but it's advisable to drink responsibly, as laws around alcohol consumption can be strict in some areas.

Transportation

Transportation costs in Hargeisa are relatively low, making it an affordable city to live in. Taxis of various sizes are readily available, with fares starting around $1-2 for short journeys. Motorbikes and bicycles can be rented for around $5-10 per day, and car rentals start at around $20 per day. If you're traveling outside of Hargeisa, buses are a popular mode of transportation, with routes to neighboring towns and cities.

Hargeisa has a hot desert climate, characterized by dry, dusty winds and very little rainfall. Temperatures can be scorching during the day, averaging around 35-40°C, but cooler evenings offer some relief. The wet season, from April to June, brings a brief respite from the heat, with occasional rain showers. November to January are the coolest months.

Hargeisa's growing economy has attracted significant foreign investment, leading to a host of job opportunities across various sectors. The city is home to a number of bustling markets, including the hectic Hargeisa Central Market, where you can find everything from traditional textiles and ceramics to modern electronics and car parts. Other popular industries include agriculture, livestock trading, telecommunications, construction, and finance. Several multinational companies have set up operations in Hargeisa, including Dahabshil, Orbis, and Abu Dhabi Investment Authority. Many expats find work in these companies, as well as in the growing hospitality sector or through volunteer work.

Healthcare facilities in Hargeisa are increasing, providing expats with a range of options. The city's largest healthcare provider is the Adaan Health Organization, which runs several hospitals and clinics. Other major hospitals include the Hargeisa Group Hospital and the Somaliland Medical Academy. Many expats also turn to private clinics, such as MediHeal Clinic, which offer a more Western-style service. It's essential to ensure that your health insurance policy covers care in Hargeisa, as you may need to evacuate the city for urgent treatment. Malaria is endemic in the surrounding regions, so it's essential to take preventative measures.

Getting around Hargeisa is easy, with a mix of informal and formal transport options. Taxis are the most popular choice, with a network of minibusses ('matatus') and larger shared taxis ('co-ops') serving most destinations. Prices are relatively low, with a short journey costing around $1-2. The city is also steadily expanding its road network, making it increasingly easy to drive, particularly if you work for a multinational company with a fleet of vehicles. Motorcycles and bicycles are popular alternatives, particularly for shorter journeys, and can be rented for around $5-10 per day.

While Hargeisa is generally considered a safe city, it's essential to be cautious in certain areas. It's recommended to avoid walking alone at night and to be wary of crowded areas, particularly during protests or other political gatherings. Keep your valuables secure and be aware of pickpocketing in busy areas, particularly mosques and markets. If you're unsure about any particular area, it's always best to consult a trusted local or expat community organization.